7 steps to incredible macro photos with any camera phone – CNET

7 steps to incredible macro photos with any camera phone – CNET


Andrew Hoyle/CNET

With a macro-lens with almost any camera phone, such as the iPhone 11, iPhone 11 Pro Galaxy S10 Plus or Pixel 4, it allows you up close to incredible details, and capture a side of nature you never knew. “Macro-photography” simply means a photograph of an object in extreme close-up, so that they appear life-size or larger in the image.

Macro photography can make small issues such as garden, insect, or petals of the flower look huge on the screen or in print, and you will be amazed how different these otherwise mundane things look, if the indicator is so close.

Best of all, you don’t need a lot of equipment or leaving the backyard to get started.

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Note that, while I’m using a Galaxy S10 Plus to take the pictures you see in this article, most of these tips apply to any phone, whether you shoot on Android or iPhone.

1. Get a macro lens for your phone

The only thing you need to add to take your phone to take macro photos is a macro lens. I use the Moment, macro lens, putting it on a dedicated Moment phone case. Moment’s lenses are on the expensive side, but they are made of high quality glass and are one of the best quality. The cases fit Galaxy S8 ($275 at Amazon) phones, and newer, iPhone 6, and the newer, the OnePlus 6, 6T and 7 Pro, and Google Pixel to.

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the Moment, macro-produced lens, beautiful results.


Andrew Hoyle/CNET

you can also find clip-on macro lenses from companies such as the Olloclip (Olloclip clip-system allows you to connect lenses to almost every cell phone). There are a variety available on Amazon for a lot less, although I can’t speak for the quality.

2. You can find your theme: insects and flowers the best

Crucial for anything is a theme that works also in the macro. Obviously, you need to think small. Really small.

The natural world is full of possibilities — just search “macro-photography” in Google and the image results are dominated by pictures of insects and plant life. The great thing is, not to try to photograph these kind of animals means, hop on a plane to a distant nature reserve.

your garden or a nearby park will probably be teeming with the matter. But it may be more difficult. My tip is to pay attention to small sections of plants or shrubs, on the lookout for any mini-beasts that may be holding on to the stalks, or hiding under leaves. It can be very time consuming, but once you get the hang of it, as you are to find and where you are more likely to make it easier.

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you will Find this tiny little spider was easy-it came to me!


Andrew Hoyle/CNET

however, keep in Mind, this is your home. So not to break the plant or pull off the leaves, only with better pictures. Always a cool picture is not an excuse for the destruction of a living space.

If insects are not your thing, you will have a scan for interesting flowers, leaves, stones, loose feathers or other natural elements, which could look very different from up close. Even the textures on clothing, food or skin can look interesting, if a picture.

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It is not the insect must recording keep your eye out for interesting little details that could make for a great macro.


Andrew Hoyle/CNET

3. Shoot in manual mode

I looks almost always shoot in manual mode on my phone, when taking artistic pictures, because I have so much more control over how the finished image. I also make sure I shoot in raw format, this gives me more control over the white balance and the colours, after seeing the photos and the processing.

In most Android phones, including the latest Galaxy S10 Plus-you can find Pro (manual) mode as an option in the default camera app. iPhone users need an app like Moment, which gives you manual control over the settings, and you can shoot in raw format. I also tend to use manual focus, which I later, and I make sure that I have a shutter speed of at least 1/125 of a second counter, as much of the blur from my hands as possible.

4. You are not using burst shooting

When I shoot in manual, I sometimes have the camera in the standard mode shooting. The main reason is to use because it allows me, the burst mode takes several photos in quick succession by simply pressing and holding the shutter button. If an insect is in an awkward position, or movement, I’ve found that my finger on the trigger, firing off tens of photos is a second the best way to get a good shot.

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The wind in motion, the error kept on this sheet, in-and out-of-focus, but shooting in burst mode, I was firing in the position to select the best shot later.


Andrew Hoyle/CNET

By, I think, does the subject of coarse in the view, while the lens in and out easily. Hopefully, one of the 70 or so images are nice and sharp.

Most of the manual modes do not let you use the burst mode. As a workaround in the manual mode, I type as fast as I can take the trigger more images, thus increasing the chances that at least one of them will look good. With this method I can shoot upwards of 30 individual pictures of each topic, with maybe only one of them is good. It is a hit or miss technique, but the hits are worth the effort!

5. The center of gravity right, also without focus-stacking

Ensure that your subject is in focus is the hardest part of the whole task. Professional macro photographers will often use a technique called focus-stacking), to reach wherein a plurality of images with different focus points combined in the post, a completely in-focus-topic. This is difficult to achieve in the field, as it is required to stay on the subject is quite still, while the photos are taken. It is the reason why, unfortunately, some macro photographers dead insects in their work, or those who were held to slow down in a refrigerator, your movements, and after Shooting in a controlled studio.

The moment, the macro lens I use, is a brilliant close-up on an insect, but it also has a very narrow plane of focus-which means that only a thin slice of the scene is sharp. The focus on a Insect eye, for example, will probably mean, his body falling out of focus. While this does not mean that it is a challenge to a razor-sharp recording, is blurry the background is also appealing, and you need quite a lot of distracting elements behind your subject.

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Always, the focus was not directly on the fly’s eye.


Andrew Hoyle/CNET

the technique That I will be involved in the most used for this piece, the shooting in the S10 Plus manual mode, with manual focus on the next point of focus. After that I. constantly moves the camera to the subject, until only the part I wanted to sharp came to look at the focus, and then I got the picture At this level of magnification, even a tiny shake, throw everything out of focus, so it takes a steady hand.

6. Bring some extra lighting

As with any type of photography, macro-photography relies on the great light falls on your subject. But always, the lighting in the right places is tricky. I shot a lot of macro shots in the midday sun, as the bright light wore the colors of the insects. In addition, the phone allows you to use the lowest ISO setting possible (what is noise to less image) and the shortest shutter time (for sharper images).

But small insects in the leaves means that you may well be hunting under bushes or in wooded areas where natural light can be scarce. Another Problem is that they may block the sunlight with your phone, since you will need to get extremely close to your subject and the best angle can mean, a shadow.

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If the ambient light deleted too much, I brought the RotoLight LED light to help brighten up the subject.


Andrew Hoyle/CNET

The second Problem could be helped by simply trying different angles, but I also had great success with in my own lighting. I use the RotoLight Stealth LED ring light is battery operated and can easily fit in a backpack. It is powerful enough to have a good amount of light on your subject, and its mean size You can easily move to the light in the most flattering angle. I also use the newer Rotolight Neo II, which has a much higher light output, so that you are better for the lighting of macro photography in the light of day.

7. Edit for impact

“edit” your image is a great way, a simple image and turned it into a really artistic work. I use Adobe Lightroom on Android, to edit my photos, but I also work with Snapseed and VSCO.

in General, I adjust the white balance to get a natural and accurate look at the color (and it’s even easier if you have a raw shot). Then I play with the exposure, the highlights are not too overpowering and the detail is not lost in the darkness of the shadow.

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An image before (left) and after (right) editing in Adobe Lightroom on the Galaxy S10 Plus. A simple crop, exposure, balance and some selective brightening on-the-fly has really made this image pop.


Andrew Hoyle/CNET

I then edit is purely based on what I think is good. I can help with a setting brush to “paint” more light in the theme, you draw, and use a vignette to darken the edges of the frame, wherein the eye more on the subject in the center. With nature and the animals, I want to make sure that I keep the theme as natural as possible — I like to improve the scene, but not the age it-so I avoid drastically the colors change, or with strong filters.

There is no right or wrong way to edit, so sit back with a Cup of tea and enjoy optimize this slider to see what you can achieve with your newly recorded set of fascinating macro photos.


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Released on Wed, 06 Nov 2019 12:00:00 +0000

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